Johannesburg

Johannesburg owes its existence to gold: the 1886 discovery of the Witwatersrand reef, the richest gold deposit ever found, turned empty Highveld grassland into a booming city within a generation, and the legacy is everywhere in the name eGoli (“place of gold”), the old mine dumps on the horizon and museums of the rush. Today Joburg is the financial and commercial capital of the country — a city of contrasts, from the historic and now partly regenerating inner city to the affluent leafy northern suburbs. Its modern centre of gravity is Sandton, a district of glass towers, headquarters, hotels and high-end malls around Nelson Mandela Square, served by the Gautrain rapid rail; it is where much of the city's business and luxury life now happens. To make sense of the gold story and the city's beginnings, attractions such as Gold Reef City (a mining-themed park on an old mine, with an underground tour) and the city's heritage walks bring the boomtown era to life. Energetic, ambitious and constantly reinventing itself, Johannesburg is the urban heart of South Africa.

Johannesburg is the best place in the country to engage with South Africa's modern history, and its major heritage sites are among the most visited and meaningful in the city. The Apartheid Museum is a powerful, world-class museum that tells the story of 20th-century South Africa, and Constitution Hill — built around a former prison and now the seat of the Constitutional Court — is a moving site of memory and democracy. On the city's south-western side, Soweto, the country's largest and most famous township, is a destination in its own right: Vilakazi Street, once home to both Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu, is lined with the Mandela House museum, restaurants and shops, and the nearby Hector Pieterson Museum and the Orlando Towers anchor a visit. Increasingly led by knowledgeable local guides, Soweto tours — often by bike, tuk-tuk or on foot — offer a vivid, human encounter with the township's history and its lively present-day life and culture. Together these sites make a day or two in Johannesburg one of the most enriching parts of any South Africa trip.

Beyond its history, Johannesburg has one of the most dynamic urban cultures in Africa, concentrated in a clutch of regenerated districts. Maboneng, on the eastern edge of the inner city, is a walkable precinct of converted warehouses full of galleries, design studios, cafés, rooftop bars and the Sunday Market on Main. Braamfontein, near the universities, pulses with students, street art, music venues and the Saturday Neighbourgoods Market, a Joburg institution of food, craft and people-watching. Rosebank, in the north, hosts art and African craft markets and major galleries. The city has a strong creative scene in art, fashion, music (it is a jazz and a kwaito-and-amapiano city) and food, from fine dining to the township shisa nyama (barbecue). With its galleries, weekend markets, nightlife and a confident contemporary culture, this side of Joburg is a revelation to visitors who expected only history and business — and it is where the city's famous energy is most infectious.

Within an hour of Johannesburg lies the Cradle of Humankind, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of dolomitic caves that have produced some of the richest early-hominin fossil finds in the world, including the famous “Mrs Ples” and “Little Foot”. You can descend into the Sterkfontein Caves and explore the excellent Maropeng visitor centre, which traces the story of human origins — a fascinating half- or full-day trip. Johannesburg is also the great gateway to the wildlife of southern Africa: malaria-free game reserves lie within easy reach, the Pilanesberg National Park and the Sun City resort are a couple of hours away, the Lion and Safari Park is close to the city, and the city is the usual launch point for trips to the Kruger National Park and beyond. OR Tambo International Airport, the busiest in Africa, connects Joburg to the world and to the whole region, and the Gautrain links the airport, Sandton and Pretoria. As a hub, the city pairs urban culture and history with quick access to safari and the cradle of our species.