Seoul

Seoul's historic heart sits beneath the northern mountains. Gyeongbokgung, the grand main palace of the Joseon dynasty, anchors it — vast courtyards, a throne hall, the picturesque Gyeonghoeru pavilion over a lotus pond, and a colourful changing-of-the-guard ceremony at the gate; rent a hanbok (traditional dress) nearby and palace entry is free. A short walk away, Changdeokgung is the most beautiful of the palaces, its UNESCO-listed Secret Garden (Huwon) a masterpiece of Korean landscaping best seen on a guided walk. Between the palaces, Bukchon Hanok Village preserves hundreds of traditional tile-roofed houses on steep lanes with views over the old city, while nearby Insadong is the place for traditional crafts, calligraphy, ceramics and teahouses. Together they make a full, walkable day of old Seoul.

Seoul's energy lives in its districts, each with a distinct flavour. Myeongdong is the shopping and cosmetics heartland, its streets packed with skincare flagships, fashion and a famous after-dark street-food market. Hongdae, around the arts universities, is the youthful core — indie music, buskers, themed cafés, clubs and cheap eats that run late. Itaewon brings the international food and bar scene; Insadong and Samcheong-dong the artsy, traditional side. Across the Han River, Gangnam is the glossy, upscale district of the famous song — luxury shopping, plastic-surgery clinics, the COEX Mall with its Instagram-famous Starfield Library, and the entertainment agencies that drive K-pop. The supertall Lotte World Tower and the Lotte World theme park sit nearby in Jamsil. Hopping between these districts on the superb subway is half the fun.

Eating is the heart of a Seoul visit. Korean barbecue — grilling pork belly or marinated galbi at your table with scissors, lettuce wraps and a parade of banchan side dishes — is the classic group meal; everyday Korean food means bubbling stews (kimchi-jjigae, sundubu), bibimbap and the endless free banchan that come with any meal. The markets are a feast in themselves: Gwangjang Market for mung-bean pancakes, mayak gimbap and raw beef, the Myeongdong street stalls for tornado potatoes and egg bread, Tongin Market's lunchbox café. Korean fried chicken with beer ('chimaek') is the late-night ritual, and Seoul's café culture is a phenomenon of its own — themed, design-led and everywhere. To recover, the jjimjilbang bathhouses offer a uniquely Korean ritual of hot pools, sauna rooms and a place to nap, some open around the clock.

For the big picture, ride the cable car up Namsan to N Seoul Tower, where the city spreads out in every direction (and couples lock padlocks to the railings), or climb the granite peaks that ring the city — Bukhansan National Park's trails start within the metro. Seoul's Buddhist temples offer calm amid the rush: the colourful Jogyesa in the centre and the large Bongeunsa facing the Gangnam skyscrapers, some offering temple-stay experiences. The Han River itself is a giant linear park — rent a bike, picnic at Yeouido (spectacular under spring cherry blossom), or take an evening cruise past the bridge fountains. The city's most sobering and fascinating day trip is the DMZ, the Korean Demilitarized Zone about an hour north, visited on organised tours to the border installations and observation points — a unique window onto the divided peninsula.