Abidjan

Abidjan is built around the Ébrié Lagoon, and the water shapes everything. The commercial heart is Le Plateau, the central business district, where office towers, banks and ministries rise in a genuine skyline above the lagoon — the image that gives the city its “Manhattan of West Africa” nickname — best appreciated from across the water or from one of the lagoon's pirogue and boat-taxi crossings. The Plateau's standout landmark is St Paul's Cathedral, a dramatic modern building of swooping concrete and steel cables designed by the Italian architect Aldo Spirito, well worth a look. Across the lagoon, Cocody is the city's most prestigious district — home to embassies, the university, smart hotels and the upscale Deux Plateaux quarter — while the southern districts of Treichville and Marcory, reached by the bridges, are denser and more workaday, full of markets, music and street life. The vast, vibrant district of Yopougon (“Yop City”) captures the city's everyday energy. Threading it all together, the lagoon, the bridges and the constant movement of people make Abidjan feel unmistakably like a city of the water.

Abidjan is the cultural and musical capital of francophone West Africa, and its nightlife is legendary. This is the birthplace of Coupé-Décalé — the exuberant electronic dance style that swept the continent — and of Zouglou before it, and the city throbs with the music in its clubs, bars and, above all, its maquis: the open-air, casual restaurant-bars where grilled fish and chicken, cold beer and loud music come together in the quintessential Ivorian night out. Treichville is famous for its nightlife and its huge market, and the city's markets more broadly — for fabrics, crafts, masks and everyday goods — are a sensory introduction to Ivorian life. For culture, the Musée des Civilisations de Côte d'Ivoire on the Plateau (on Boulevard Carde) displays thousands of masks, statues, instruments and textiles representing the country's many peoples, an excellent overview of Ivorian heritage. Galleries, a lively fashion scene and a strong café culture round out a city that, after dark especially, is one of the most entertaining in the region.

Abidjan has surprising access to nature and beaches. Remarkably, a swathe of dense primary rainforest survives right inside the city as the Banco National Park, where shaded trails wind among giant trees and the historic open-air laundry of the fanico is a curiosity — a green lung and an easy escape from the urban bustle. The Atlantic coast is close, and two destinations stand out for day trips and weekends. Grand-Bassam, about forty kilometres east, is a UNESCO World Heritage town of faded period architecture and craft workshops set behind a long Atlantic beach lined with seafood restaurants — the most popular and atmospheric coastal outing from the city. Further along the coast, Assinie and its lagoons are the smart beach-resort escape, with palm-fringed sands, watersports and weekend villas. Closer in, the city's own lagoon beaches and the Île Boulay offer leisure on the water. Between the in-city rainforest and the nearby Atlantic shore, Abidjan balances its intensity with genuine room to breathe.

Eating is one of the great pleasures of Abidjan. The signature dish is attiéké, a light, slightly tangy couscous made from fermented cassava, typically served with grilled fish (poisson braisé) and a fiery pepper-and-onion relish — the classic maquis meal. Alongside it come alloco (fried sweet plantain), kedjenou (a slow-cooked chicken or guineafowl stew), grilled meats and abundant fresh tropical fruit, all best enjoyed in the relaxed, music-filled setting of a maquis. Practically, Abidjan is the country's main gateway: Félix-Houphouët-Boigny International Airport (ABJ) is a major West African hub, and the city is well supplied with international hotels, especially in the Plateau and Cocody. Getting around is easiest by ride-hailing app or taxi (agree fares in advance with street taxis); traffic can be heavy. Remember that Côte d'Ivoire requires a yellow fever vaccination for entry, and that most visitors need a visa (often an e-visa) arranged in advance. French is the working language. With a little preparation, Abidjan rewards visitors with one of the most dynamic city experiences in West Africa.