Ghana · Africa

  • Code:EP
  • Type:region

Introduction

The Eastern Region is the one Ghanaians use and visitors drive through. It starts about an hour above the capital, where a forested ridge lifts the air by several degrees and holds the country's botanical gardens, and it runs north-east to the gorge where the Volta was dammed in the 1960s — the act that created Lake Volta and most of the country's electricity. In between are waterfalls, a plateau that fills every Easter, and the towns where the country's glass beads are made.

Overview

This region is built for short trips rather than long ones, and its proximity to the capital is the whole point: the ridge above Accra is under an hour away when the road is kind, and the dam is about two. The character changes as you climb. On the Akuapem ridge the temperature drops noticeably, the vegetation thickens, and towns strung along the crest look back over the coastal plain — this is where people from the capital go for air, and it has been that way for well over a century. North-east of the ridge the land opens into cocoa country and then to the river, where the dam wall closes a gorge and the water behind it disappears over the horizon. North again, the Kwahu plateau rises to some of the highest inhabited ground in the country and empties and fills with the domestic calendar. Two things are worth planning around. The first is Easter, when the entire Kwahu ridge fills with Ghanaians for the biggest domestic travel week of the year, accommodation vanishes and the roads north are slow — glorious if you want it, painful if you did not know. The second is Wednesday, which is when the region's bead market runs and is the only day to be in Koforidua if beads are any part of your interest. Otherwise the dry months from roughly November to March are the easy window, and everything here works as a day out from the capital if you would rather not move hotels.

Discover Eastern

Under an hour above the capital the road climbs the Akuapem escarpment and the temperature falls away. At the top sits Aburi, and its botanical gardens — laid out in the late nineteenth century on the site of a colonial-era sanatorium and now a wide expanse of lawn under enormous mature trees, palms and strangler figs, with paths, benches and almost no noise. It is a genuine botanical collection rather than a park with a sign, it is where the capital comes to breathe at weekends, and it is the single easiest good day out from Accra. Along the road outside the gates, the woodcarvers' stalls run for several hundred metres: stools, masks, bowls and figures carved on the spot, with prices that reward unhurried bargaining and a walk to the third stall rather than the first. The ridge continues north through Mampong and Amanokrom, cool and green, with viewpoints back over the coastal plain to the sea on a clear morning. Near Mampong is the small farm where cocoa was first successfully planted in Ghana in the 1870s — a modest, well-kept site with a handful of original trees still standing, and a surprisingly moving stop for anyone who has understood how much of this country's economy grew from it.

Ways to Experience This Destination

Aburi Botanical Gardens

Enormous mature trees, cool air and quiet an hour above the capital, with the woodcarvers' stalls along the road outside — the easiest good day out from Accra.

Akosombo Dam

The wall that closed the Volta gorge and made the lake — viewpoints above it, cruises from the town, and shrimp stalls at the bridge downstream.

Boti Falls and the beads

Twin falls at the foot of a long staircase, a mushroom rock that looks temporary, and the Krobo workshops where Ghana's glass beads are made.

Kwahu at Easter

A high escarpment that is empty most of the year and hosts the country's biggest domestic travel week — street parties and paragliding off the ridge.

Frequently asked questions

Aburi, on the ridge under an hour above the city. The botanical gardens are genuinely old and genuinely beautiful, the air is several degrees cooler than the coast, and the woodcarvers' stalls outside the gates are the best place near the capital to buy carving directly from the person who made it. Add the ridge viewpoints and, near Mampong, the small farm where Ghana's cocoa industry began.

This overview comes from Visaja's worldwide missions database (visaja.com), checked against official government sources; for binding answers, the mission itself always has the final word.