Cork

Cork's pride and the best place to start is the English Market, a covered municipal food market in the heart of the city that has traded continuously since 1788 — one of the oldest of its kind in the world and a genuine local institution (Queen Elizabeth II's celebrated 2011 visit only burnished its fame). Beneath its fountain and Victorian ironwork, stalls sell the best of Irish produce: farmhouse cheeses, fresh fish and shellfish, meats and the city's own specialities — buttered eggs, spiced beef, and the traditional offal delicacies of tripe and drisheen — alongside breads, olives and global foods. The upstairs Farmgate Café, overlooking the market, is the classic spot for a lunch of market produce. The English Market is the cornerstone of Cork's standing as Ireland's food capital, a reputation reinforced by an excellent restaurant scene, artisan producers across the county, and the nearby gourmet town of Kinsale. For any visitor, an hour browsing (and tasting) in the market is the perfect introduction to the city's appetite for good food.

Cork's compact centre rewards walking. The city's signature landmark rises north of the river in the Shandon district: the church of St Anne, whose distinctive tower — half red sandstone, half white limestone, topped by a gilded salmon weathervane — houses the famous Shandon Bells, which visitors can climb up to and ring themselves before enjoying the rooftop views. To the south, the soaring French-Gothic spires of St Fin Barre's Cathedral mark the spot where the city's monastic founder settled in the 6th century. In between, the island city centre threads together St Patrick's Street (the curving main shopping street), the narrow lanes and pubs of the old quarter, the quays along the Lee, and cultural draws such as the free Crawford Art Gallery and the restored Cork City Gaol. The atmosphere is friendly and unpretentious, with a strong student presence from University College Cork and a lively nightlife of traditional-music sessions and gigs in pubs across the city. Cork is a place to wander, eat and drink, and soak up the easygoing character of Ireland's southern capital.

Some of Cork's best experiences are just outside the city. A short trip north-west, Blarney Castle is among Ireland's most famous attractions — a medieval stronghold whose battlements hold the legendary Blarney Stone, said to give the “gift of the gab” to those who lean back and kiss it, set in beautiful gardens. Down the harbour to the south-east, the lovely town of Cobh (formerly Queenstown) has a poignant history: it was the Titanic's final port of call in 1912 and, for generations, the great departure point for Irish emigrants to America, stories told at the Titanic Experience and the Cobh Heritage Centre, beneath a dramatic cathedral and a famous row of steeply stacked, brightly painted houses. To the south, the picturesque harbour town of Kinsale — narrow streets, a yachting marina, star-shaped Charles Fort and a celebrated restaurant scene — is both a gourmet getaway and the official starting point of the Wild Atlantic Way. Each makes an easy day trip and shows the rich variety of County Cork around its capital.

Beyond Kinsale, County Cork unfolds into West Cork, one of the most beautiful and beloved corners of Ireland and a highlight of the Wild Atlantic Way coastal route. This is a landscape of rugged peninsulas, island-dotted bays, colourful villages and a famous artisan-food and creative culture: the harbour towns of Clonakilty (home of the renowned black pudding), Skibbereen and Bantry; the sailing and foodie haven of Schull; the boat trips to Cape Clear and Sherkin Island; and the wild, scenic drives out along the Mizen Head and Sheep's Head peninsulas to the Atlantic. Gardens like Garinish Island in Bantry Bay, megalithic stone circles, and beaches add to the appeal, and West Cork's relaxed, independent spirit and excellent local food have made it a magnet for visitors and a haven for artists and producers. With Cork city as a base, West Cork offers some of the finest coastal touring in the country, easily combined with the city's markets, pubs and culture for a rich taste of Ireland's south.