Essaouira, Morocco: the walled Atlantic port, the trade winds and the medina grid
Evergreen city guide with quick facts, travel, business, and culture.
Overview
Sea Ramparts & the Planned Medina
Windsurfing & Kitesurfing
Fishing Port & Grills
Thuya Marquetry & Argan
Gnaoua & the Arts
The Islands & the Beach
History
Culture
Practical Info
Essaouira is the exception among Moroccan old towns: instead of growing outward over centuries into the usual organic tangle, it was laid out deliberately and all at once. In the 1760s the sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah decided to build a fortified Atlantic port to channel trade away from rival harbours, and had it designed by a European military engineer — which is why the medina inside the walls runs on straight intersecting streets that you can actually navigate, an experience no visitor to Fes or Marrakech will recognise. The second defining fact is the wind. The Atlantic trade winds blow along this coast almost daily and with real force, which is what made the anchorage useful under sail and what makes the town a serious windsurfing and kitesurfing destination now. It also means the long beach is a place to walk, ride and sail rather than to lie on, and that Essaouira stays cool through the summer months when inland Morocco is punishing — the main reason Marrakech empties towards the coast in August. What remains is a working fishing port with blue wooden boats and open-air grills, ramparts you can walk with the sea breaking below, a craft tradition in fragrant thuya wood that exists at this level nowhere else in the country, and an unhurried, notably relaxed atmosphere. Two days is enough to see it; a good many people come for two and stay for five.
Discover Essaouira
Almost every Moroccan medina is the accumulated result of centuries of building, which is why they are labyrinths. Essaouira is not: it was commissioned as a single project in the 1760s by Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, who wanted a defensible Atlantic port under his own control, and it was designed by a European military engineer working in the fortress idiom of the period. The consequence is immediately legible on the ground — straight streets meeting at right angles, a main axis running from the landward gate to the sea, and ramparts built as a continuous system rather than patched together. For a visitor this changes the character of the place entirely. You can wander without a plan and still know roughly where you are, which removes the low-level anxiety that shapes a first visit to Fes. The walls themselves are the best introduction: the Skala de la Ville, a long artillery platform on the seaward side, is lined with old brass cannon and takes the full force of the Atlantic swell below, and walking it at the end of the afternoon is the single thing to do if you only do one.
It depends what you want from a beach. The sand is enormous and superb for walking, riding and above all board sailing, but the Atlantic here is cold and the wind blows most days — so it is a poor choice for sunbathing and a very good one for being active outdoors.
It can, at two and a half to three hours each way, and a great many people do it. You will see the ramparts and the port and miss the thing the town is actually good at, which is the evening and the unhurried pace. An overnight stay changes the visit completely.
Because it was designed rather than grown. The town was built as a single planned project in the 1760s on a grid of intersecting streets, so it has none of the accumulated tangle of a medina that developed over many centuries.