Travel deep dive
The Trobriand Islands: Village Life Around the Yam Harvest
The Trobriand Islands are a group of low coral islands in the Solomon Sea, off the eastern end of mainland Papua New Guinea and part of Milne Bay Province. Kiriwina, the largest, holds most of the villages, and a visit is spent in them: among the yam gardens and yam houses, with the carvers at work and, after the harvest, the dancing. Few travellers make the journey, and a stay is a simple guesthouse or a night in a village, arranged before arrival. The islands are reached by a domestic flight to the airstrip on Kiriwina, where the hosts meet the plane.
Updated 2026-10-05
Kiriwina and the smaller islands
Kiriwina is long and flat, a coral island of gardens, palm groves and villages, with a reef-sheltered lagoon along its western side. Losuia, on that western shore, is the main settlement and the islands' government station. Kaileuna, Kitava and Vakuta, the other inhabited islands of the group, lie close by and are visited by boat from Kiriwina when the hosts arrange it.
Yam houses and the harvest
Yams are the measure of a household on the islands. After the harvest they are stacked in yam houses, raised log stores built with gaps between the logs so that the crop inside can be seen, and a full yam house speaks for the standing of its owner; a chief's is the grandest in the village. The harvest is followed by milamala, the harvest festival, a season of dancing and of visits between villages. It is not fixed to a calendar date, so a visit meant to coincide with it is planned with the hosts.
Cricket on the village ground
Cricket came to the islands with missionaries, and the islanders made it a game of their own. Village plays village, the sides are not held to eleven players, the players take the field in paint and decoration, and a fallen wicket is met with chanting and dance. A match happens when two villages arrange one, so a visitor sees it by chance or through the hosts, not on a schedule.
Ebony carving
Trobriand carvers work in dark ebony, and their figures, bowls and walking sticks are sold in the villages, often by the carver who made them. The price is agreed with the carver and paid in cash. The boards carved for the prow of a canoe, painted in red, black and white, are made on the islands too.
Visiting a village
Each village and its land belong to its people, so a visit is made with a guide from the island, who introduces the visitor and agrees a contribution to the village beforehand. Photographs of people are asked for, not taken. Purchases and contributions are made in cash, in kina brought from the mainland. Malaria occurs on the islands and medical care is basic, so the health preparation for Papua New Guinea is done before the flight.