Getting around
Getting Around France: Reading the Rail Network
France's transport network has a shape, and once you see it, planning a trip stops being guesswork. The TGV high-speed rail system was built around Paris as its hub, most lines radiating outward like spokes rather than crossing the country in a grid — which means the fastest way between two provincial cities is sometimes through the capital, not around it. Understanding that shape, plus the country's real (if often overstated) relationship with strikes, is most of what getting around France actually requires.
Updated 2026-08-15
The TGV: built around Paris by design
The TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) network connects France's major cities at speeds regularly exceeding 300 km/h, and its physical layout is genuinely hub-and-spoke: the lines were built radiating outward from Paris, historically the country's political and economic centre, rather than as a grid connecting regional cities directly to each other. The practical consequence catches visitors out constantly — travelling from, say, Strasbourg to Bordeaux without passing through Paris can mean a slower, more roundabout regional journey, even though both cities have excellent direct TGV service to the capital. Booking ahead genuinely matters on the TGV: fares are dynamically priced similarly to airline tickets, and the cheapest seats sell out first, so a fare booked weeks ahead can cost a fraction of one bought the same morning.
Grèves: what a strike actually does to your trip
Industrial action, grèves, is a genuine and recurring feature of French public life, regularly affecting trains, the Paris Metro and occasionally airports, and it's worth understanding what a strike actually means in practice rather than assuming the worst. French law requires a guaranteed minimum service during most transport strikes, meaning services are typically reduced rather than eliminated — a percentage of trains still run, usually announced in advance, rather than a total shutdown. SNCF (the national rail operator) publishes service disruption updates ahead of announced strike dates, and checking these along with local news before travelling during a strike period is the practical response, not cancelling a trip outright. Strikes tend to cluster around specific disputes and dates rather than running continuously, so a trip planned around ordinary travel dates has a reasonable chance of encountering no disruption at all.
Paris: Metro, RER and the Navigo pass
Within Paris, the Metro network is dense and efficient, covering the city with stations close enough together that most visitors rarely walk more than a few minutes to reach one, while the RER (a regional express rail network) extends further out to the suburbs, the airports and destinations like Versailles. The weekly Navigo pass, covering unlimited travel across the Metro, RER and buses within its zones, becomes cost-effective for most visitors staying more than a few days, since it removes the need to track individual ticket purchases entirely. Beyond the capital, most French cities of any size run their own tram or bus networks sufficient for a short visitor stay, though none match Paris's density or coverage.
Beyond the TGV: regional trains, driving and airports
Away from the TGV's main lines, TER regional trains fill in the network's gaps — slower, more frequent, and the practical way to reach the smaller towns and villages the high-speed lines skip entirely, particularly useful for visiting the Loire châteaux or Provence's hilltop villages from a nearby TGV-served city. A car becomes genuinely useful, sometimes essential, for exactly this kind of rural, multi-stop touring, since public transport thins out fast once away from the rail corridors; France's autoroute network is extensive and well-maintained, though largely toll-based, and driving on the right is standard as in most of continental Europe. Paris is served by two main airports, Charles de Gaulle (the primary international hub, connected to the city by RER) and Orly (closer in, serving more domestic and some European routes), while most other major French cities have their own smaller international or domestic airports, making a fly-into-one-city, out-of-another itinerary genuinely practical for a multi-region trip.