Prizren

The old town gathers around Shadërvan, the cobbled square with its old fountain, from which the lanes of the bazaar run off between low houses, workshops and cafés. The grills and pie shops of the bazaar feed the walk between the monuments, and the silversmiths' workshops are here too.

The Sinan Pasha Mosque of 1615 rises over the Bistrica with its tall dome and minaret, a few steps from the Stone Bridge, the Ottoman arch that carries the old town across the river. The Gazi Mehmed Pasha Mosque, known as the Bajrakli Mosque, stands nearby, and the riverbank between them is the town's promenade on summer evenings.

Within the same few hundred metres stand the Church of Our Lady of Ljeviša, a fourteenth-century church of brick and stone that belongs to the World Heritage site of the medieval monuments of Kosovo, and the Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, so the mosques and the Orthodox and Catholic churches share the old town's streets.

On the riverbank below the old town, the League of Prizren complex is a small museum in a group of rebuilt stone buildings, named after the league that met there in 1878.

A path climbs from the old town to the fortress on the hill, about twenty minutes uphill on foot, and the walk pays twice: at sunset, when the minarets and the foothills of the Šar turn gold below, and during Dokufest, when screenings move onto the walls. The ruins themselves are walls, gateways and terraces open to the sky.